This web page is applicable to the HID kit sold by Baja Designs in 2000/2001. The HID installation kit is a single filament bulb. There is no high beam with this kit. There is a twofold problem when adapting HID to a H4 application. First, you will want a low beam pattern, not the high beam. Second, you will want to be able to use your high beam switch position to invoke some sort of high beam capability (ie. additional driving lights).
To solve the low beam pattern, you will need to get an adaptor ring with a built in reflector duplicating the reflector built into the H4 bulb itself. It can be ordered from Baja Designs. This is what that ring looks like.
To address the address the high beam switch issue, in order to make sure the headlight stays on when you go into high beam the kit ties the low and high beam power leads together. This presents another twofold problem. First the high beam indicator on the instrument panel will be constantly on. Second, if you have driving lights and use the high beam to energize the relay, they will now be on all the time.
In order to prevent either of these conditions,
a diode must be installed in the high beam lead to block the back
feed of the power when in low beam mode.
Here is the connectors that plug
into the H4 connector before anything is done.
Gently pull on the SINGLE red connector
and you will get this....
The wire was folded up under the
insulation. What you want to do is place the diode in the long
wire.
The diode I used was a NTE Electronics
# NTE577, a 5amp diode rated at 200amp maximum surge, 1000volt
so it should work. I bought mine at Fry's Electronics
Cut just enough of the lead out
to accommodate the diode. Leave enough to solder in the diode.
Now solder in the diode. NOTE that
the SILVER BAND on the diode FACES the dual red connector. The
dual red lead connector will be the low beam (yellow wire on the
H4 connector. Note the heat shrink slid over the red lead to cover
the diode later.
Go ahead and solder in the diode
making sure you get good solder flow. NOTE the diode polarization.
Now heat shrink the diode.
Now, using an old H4 bulb, heat
up the prongs with a hair dryer or other device (I have a paint
stripper I use). Use the prongs to melt three slots in the film
container bottom. Thanks to Bryce Ulrich for the film cannister
idea and to Joe Zulaski for passing on the information as well
as dialoguing with me on the install (even if he does have a ST1000!
- just a joke....)
Insert the three leads in the open
end of the case making sure the black lead goes in the right slot,
the double red lead in the top slot and the single red lead in
the left slot looking inside the container.
Now, using the H4 connector on the
bike, insert the three connectors. This will ensure proper alignment
for the next step, that being....
Fill the container with hot glue
and let set up (that's what it is doing in the next picture) The
cannister actually encapsulates the diode. It will prevent vibration
induced problems - I just hope it does not create a heat problem
for the diode. Test the system and you should be done, except
for putting the rest of the bike back together. For that, you
are on your own.....
