After searching for instructions on how to install helmet speakers and microphone in a Schuberth for over a month, I finally decided I would just have to wade in. The collective wisdom on the LDR and BMW lists helped me decide how best to do mine but I still had to develop my own methodology.

The helmet system I installed was one of two Cycle-Comm systems that are no longer available. HOWEVER, everything I do here should be applicable to any non-boom microphone system EXCEPT the mounting bracket. That will have to be modified to suit your system, whatever that is. What a shame Ron Fisher could not keep his headset in production. It is by far the best I have seen, bar none.....

In case you do not have a copy of the owners manual for this helmet, you can get a PDF version of it here.

Now for the install.

The problem for me was that I wanted a clean, neat install that would be the least intrusive on the helmet and look good. Here is what I ended up doing. I am anal retentive and HATE jury-rigged stuff. I believe that over time, unless it is done right, it will give you problems. Enough of the philosophy - on with the install.....

First, after buying a torx driver set from Sears, I used the #7 to free up the ear/cheek pads. It was NOT necessary to undo the chin strap retaining strap as someone else (Joe Zulaski I believe) had done (and warned me how difficult it was to get the screw back in). With some fanagaling (sp?), I was able to rotate the pad so that I could gain easy access to the ear area.

The next secret is to peel back the black liner to gain access to the foam. It is fastened down with clear two-sided tape. By GENTLY lifting one corner, I could see the adhesive stretching. I took an exacto knife and gently cut the adhesive as I pulled on the material so it would not pull the backing off the black liner. I pulled back enough to gain access to the recesses.

The foam had been hurting my ears so taking out some material was a good idea even if I was not installing speakers.

Once I gained access to the foam, I used a forster bit and GENTLY and SLOWLY (drill turning fairly quickly but taking material out slowwwwly) drilled out the foam to the depth I felt I could get away with. The foam bits were a bit of a mess but the hole was clean and flat on the bottom. Installing the speakers was the easy part. I did not take pictures of this procedure because I was feeling my way and was not sure what I was doing next.

Then came the microphone - the part I have labored over for weeks. Finally, tonight, after getting all the various input from the lists, here is how I decided to to it.....

First off, after removing the face shield, I took the chin bar off. This requires an allen wrench on the pivot screw. It is held in there with Loctite 242 (blue) so it will take some effort to break loose. Make sure you loctite the screws back when you reassemble....

Once the chin bar is off the helmet here is what I did. First, I peeled the left vinyl circle off and removed the T9 torx screw. I used a Forstner bit 1/16" smaller that the diameter of the microphone. Using the bit as a template, I cut the vinyl with and exacto knife so the bit would not tear it. I then SLOWLY and GENTLY drilled out the hole, stopping when I heard the bit touch the plastic shoulder where the T9 screw went in.

The resultant hole....

Now comes the interesting part. I took a coat hanger and bent it to match the curve of the chin bar.

and pushed it through the foam a couple of times until I got it coming out where I wanted in the hole....

After measuring re-measuring and double double checking, I held my breath and cut the microphone wire at a point where I figured it would be behind the ear/cheek pad and would not have to do any flexing (because I was going to resolder it later). I made sure there was enough lead off the mounting bracket that it would tuck up under the pad.

I then used the coat hanger as a fish and wrapping a SMALL amount of tape around the hanger and the mic wire, fished it through the hole the coat hanger had made. The mic then popped into place (because it was 1/16" larger than the hole, it took a bit of pressure but the popped in. I realized I had left the T9 screw out but it appear to be OK and allows the mic to sit in just a bit deeper.

There are no pics of the next step but it is to resolder the mic wire you cut earlier taking care to not allow any of the shielding to contact the center lead. I used shrink wrap to cover the center lead. When I was resoldering the shield, I cut some other stranded wire and wrapped it around the shield strands. I figure this will do two things. First, it will ensure good continuity to the shield and second, it will give it some re-inforcement.

Routing the right speaker wire over to the left side took a little bit of doing. I used an upholstery tool I had laying around to act as a pry bar and then tucked the wire in the gap with a popsickle stick.

I then attached the plug bracket to the side of the helmet drilling two holes (sob). Because of the neck piece, it was the only way I could figure to mount it. Also, I had to mount it a bit further back than normal to clear the chin bar latching mechanism. If you have to do this, also take care to clear the neck roll groove.

Check all your wiring routing, making sure to leave enough mic lead to accommodate the helmet wide open. Also, think about the routing of the wires around the chin bar strap retaining straps. I suggest you route the mic lead and the plug in bracket, then the speakers and their leads. When done, all you see is this little wire loop in the lower left corner of the visor opening.